Having mined such rich territories as color, deconstruction and artifice in her nine CHANEL beauty collections thus far, Lucia Pica considers texture for the FALL / WINTER 2018 COLLECTION. Tapping the emotional depth and visual intensity offered by matte surfaces, the selection of eye and lip colors in APOTHEOSIS, LE MAT DE CHANEL evokes a uniquely feminine sensibility – one of inner quietude, serenity and self-possession. Harmony between a woman’s internal and external worlds is captured in a color palette that brings earthy, autumnal shades for sculpting together with emotive color tones to be applied in washes or layered like vibrant oils. Their light-absorbing formulations seem to control and soften the force of their surroundings. At the same time, technical innovations provide comfort, elevating the matte products to the state of velvet and allowing them to retain their moisture as they become one with skin. As always, Pica’s signature reds act as both counterpoint and provocation, more vivid than ever in their matte extremity.
Vibrant color and refined textures are taken to new extremes in a APOTHEOSIS, LE MAT DE CHANEL devoted to matte surfaces and the emotional states they inspire. “In autumn and winter, you’re more covered up, wearing more clothes perhaps. So you get to play with color once again, to bring the face back into prominence.” – Lucia Pica
“With texture, you can really explore feelings. This matte is like an aura of color that inspires a sophisticated mood in the wearer. It’s a little bit mysterious and it feels quite soothing to the viewer.” – Lucia Pica Focusing on texture has led Lucia Pica to consider how in painting, matte pigments are used to trigger specific emotions. In APOTHEOSIS, LE MAT DE CHANEL, the rich taupes, deep browns, light mauves and powerful blues of LES 4 OMBRES reflect a sense of strength and contentment, while their velvety finish has a fine, watercolor-like effect.
“There are definitely the earthy, deep tones one would expect of an autumn collection but they’re set against desert-dust colors and deep mauves and strong blues. They’re like a strong vision spotted across a big landscape from a distance.” – Lucia Pica
The black, beige and gunmetal blue grey of the STYLO OMBRE ET CONTOUR pens bring their own profundity. Additionally, with matte textures, technique always comes into play. The pens’ creamy formulations add definition and life – ideal for soft sculpting. Just apply powder shades to their cream bases for further degrees of intensity. “The cream texture of the pens makes them more alive.” – Lucia Pica
This sublime matte effect offers additional application methods as the APOTHEOSIS collection builds. With LE ROUGE CRAYON DE COULEUR MAT, the practicality of a pen meets the innate glamor if lipstick. Jumbo-sized and retractable, the crayons’ six intense new shades are boosted by their light- absorbing, creamy texture, gliding on in a gesture as intuitive as signing one’s own signature. At the other end of the spectrum, the sheerest cover of all comes with the flourish of a wand as liquid ROUGE ALLURE INK melts into the lips, leaving a fresh, mauve-pink “stain”.
“I like oppositions in makeup – looks that represent the multiple aspects of a woman. Matte applied to a glowy face creates a sense of depth.” – Lucia Pica Lucia Pica’s love of opposites comes into play on the complexion with APOTHEOSIS, LE MAT DE CHANEL, which contrasts ultra-matte eyes and
lips against dewy, unpowdered skin. The soft mauve of the JOUES CONTRASTE provides a surprising diversion from the collection’s otherwise somber palette. The fresh pink warmth suggests a flush of natural emotion against the stronger, more constructed eye and lip looks.
“The opportunities for matte finishes are endless. In APOTHEOSIS, LE MAT DE CHANEL we even have matte nail varnishes.” – Lucia Pica The glamorous side of tranquility is distilled into two new matte shades for the nails – a bold, enigmatic red and a rich burgundy. The arresting light-absorbing texture shrouds the nails in mystery, their surfaces guaranteed to captivate and intrigue.
“The matte colors of LE VERNIS don’t reveal themselves straightaway; they’ve a distorted quality, as if viewed through the filter of a Polaroid lens.” – Lucia Pica This uncanny sensibility continues in the collection’s duo of matte shades. The elegant, lustrous finish yields a palette of red and burgundy.